Fashion Week

Dior alta-costura: século 20 enfatiza modelagens soltas no verão

Na temporada mais quente do ano, Maria Grazia Chiuri convida a artista afro-americana Mickalene Thomas para a nova coleção da Dior.

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Fotos: Divulgação

Desfiles da Dior sob o comando criativo de Maria Grazia Chiuri são, invariavelmente, sobre o universo feminino, unindo passado e presente, artes e moda. Para a alta-costura verão 2023, a convidada especial foi a artista afro-americana Mickalene Thomas, famosa pelas pinturas que misturam acrílico, esmalte e strass na busca por ampliar o debate sobre o conceito beleza. No desfile, seu trabalho contemporâneo emoldurou e fortaleceu a temática que celebra mulheres pretas, especialmente Josephine Baker, mas também nomes como as atrizes Marpessa Dawn e Eartha Kitt. Uma atmosfera de início de século 20 recheia a coleção, enfatizando a modelagem mais solta e os cabelos moldados como o de Josephine nesse período. O contraponto é a silhueta mais estruturada e recatada, que se conecta ao ativismo. No caso da dançarina, além de lutar contra o racismo ela teve atuação importante na resistência durante a Segunda Guerra Mundial – assim como Catherine, irmã de Christian Dior. O desfile abriu com um belo body com drapeado horizontal sob casaco tipo quimono em veludo, material ímpar para boa parte dos looks, incluindo a linda sequência final de vestidos. Silhuetas caras à Dior vieram na sequência, em tecidos de alfaiataria e cartela sóbria. Rigidez e doçura, força e leveza são adjetivos que ajudam a mapear a escolha de Maria Grazia para materiais, cores e modelagens, e que, certamente, a ajudaram a transportar para a coleção as personalidades dessas mulheres guerreiras. Com ressalta o texto para a imprensa, para ela alta costura é uma oportunidade de explorar os complexos processos de pensamento ligados a uma roupa construída para um corpo. Uma peça de vestuário corporal. Um corpo-casa. Um corpo-manifesto. 

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